Tuesday, January 19, 2021

How to sew a 2 colored mitered binding corner

 As you may have seen in my last post, I finished a UFO baby size quilt that had 2 bold colors meeting at the 45* line in 2 corners.  I wanted to continue this into the binding, and finally got around to asking if anyone had a tutorial.  I saw one, but it didn't specify how to make the join without a specific tool. 

I'm more of the "Can this be done with a tool I have" kind of sewer, since it's not a thing I'll be doing often.  I looked again online and found this video.   Joyce Dean Gieszler does a good job of explaining, but specifies that she uses 2 1/4" binding, and a 7/8" square.  I prefer 2 1/2" binding, so I tried a 1" square.  I had another change, as well.  

First, I was working with a fully trimmed quilt, so I couldn't leave the extra on the edges like she said.  No problem, work with a trimmed project if that's what you have.  There were no issues with this step for me. 

Step 1.  Prep your binding as usual.  You'll need an extra 4-6" longer than usual for your top, in each color.  Since mine was only 2 colors but each side was 49", I cut 3 strips of each color.  The all blue and all orange corners will be a traditional miter, no special treatment.  But if you want to do 4 different colors, make your pieces at least 6" longer than the side.  I sewed my 3 with an angled join. pressed that seam open, and then pressed wrong sides together.  The next photos are on sample fabric.  The grey is actually backing from another project that still had batting attached, but it works for the demonstration.  

Step 2.  Mark 1/4" (or your standard binding seam allowance) on the corner, and put a pin where the dot is, to mark your start/stop point.  I started the orange at the dot on the far corner, did the regular miter on the orange corner, and came to the last orange point, and stopped, and backstitched.  

Start at that point to attach the blue (next color), with at least 3" off the edge.  Be careful to not catch the orange in the seam, but get as close as you can and backstitch.  Fold the orange up, out of the way. 

I put a pin right where the orange and blue met, and then put the needle down right in that spot, then pulled the pin out.  Go forward a few stitches, and backstitch, but don't hit the orange.  You can feel it with your fingers, or go back and sew it again if you didn't get close enough. Finger press the bindings away from the top at this point, to make sure the next part is as neat as possible.  

This shows the corner start/stop point on the right side. Fold the binding back to the wrong side again for the next steps.

Step 3.  Fold both bindings so the tails go the same way.  The orange will have a miter, but the blue will be straight.  
Again, finger press the orange mitered fold. Put a pin in the end (on the right) to hold the tails even.  The orange is showing just a bit in the photo, for the photo, but make sure the edges are actually even.  

4.  With a standard ruler and marking pencil (I love my Sewline pencils, because the lead is thin.  You don't want a thick line here.).  Use the ruler to mark the lines for the existing seams sewn.  The orange binding seam is marked on the blue, and the blue line continues out to the tail, by at least an inch.  (Joyce used 7/8" here, for 2 1/4" binding, you need 1" for 2 1/2" binding).

From the marked lines, create a 1" square.  Then mark an X in the square, from each corner. This is the magic that doesn't need a special tool.   Thanks so much, Joyce!! 

Step 5.  Sew over a scrap of fabric, so you have a "leader" to start this next part.  While holding the pinned tails together, fold the quilt with the backing out, top in, on the diagonal.  Make sure the top is not caught in the area you'll be sewing.

You will be sewing from the outer edge of the binding, to the center of the X, then back to the quilt top in a V shape.  Backstitch at the beginning, and again, just a little, at the point, and as you hit the first marked dot on the quilt top.  

If you start on a scrap, it's easier to line up the binding and be able to back stitch.  

You're not sewing the whole X, just half, the V on the left side.  

Carefully trim a scant 1/4" away from the stitching line (again, the V).  Trim the point to remove some of the bulk.

 I finger pressed these seams open, using my stiletto on the right side to help support the seam.  It alleviates bulk on one side.  

Carefully turn this out, and flip it to the back side of the quilt. 

I machine stitch my binding to the back at this point, but you can finish as you usually do.  

I hope this helps add some information to Joyce's video, especially if you use a 2 1/2" binding.  
Thanks so much for following along.  I'm always happy to share the best info I've found, and what I think makes it work for me.  

Thanks for stopping by! 



Gene Black said...

Wow, that is a bit complex - but totally "do-able"- and interesting to know in case I ever need it.

Darlene S said...

Gorgeous. Thank you for the great tutorial. I love it.

Kathleen said...

Great information, will tuck this into my memory bank. Tips and tutorials is up on Friday - may pop by and ask you to link it - its a GREAT one!

Barb N said...

Where there's a will there's a way! This tutorial is a great reference for the day I want to make a binding such as this - thanks!

CathyQuilts said...

Thank you!